Walking through the doors of Vern's restaurant in the Cannonborough-Elliotborough neighborhood of Charleston, you may feel as if you have been transported to another time and place. Perhaps you are reminded of a small, rustic restaurant in the West Village of New York City, a warm, welcoming tavern in the rolling hills of Scotland, or even a bistro in the French countryside. Whatever it reminds you of, there is no question that this is a well-executed and professionally run neighborhood restaurant from the experienced husband-and-wife team of Daniel “Dano” and Bethany Heinze.
Despite being billed as a neighborhood restaurant by the Heinzes, it is already an established destination in the crowded Charleston restaurant scene. Almost immediately after its buzzy opening in the summer of 2022, it became known for its cozy atmosphere, delicious American cuisine, and friendly, attentive service. The menu features a variety of unique dishes with a modern twist, using fresh, locally sourced ingredients. Vern’s has quickly jumped to the top of many “Best of Charleston” lists.
The vibe at Vern’s is warm, inviting, and relaxed. Tables are bare wood, placed closer together than most restaurants in Charleston, but given the cozy confines the restaurant, it works perfectly. The small bar is on the left side of the dining room, and despite its small size, it offers serious wines and excellent beers from Charleston and the Southeast region. The “house” beer is made by Westbrook Brewing Company, a well-respected establishment just across the Cooper River in Mount Pleasant. The bar clearly adheres to the same ethos as the entire restaurant, featuring excellent wines by the glass and the bottle. Orange wines and sparkling wines both occupy dedicated sections of their wine list, something that is still somewhat rare in Charleston.
The food is clearly the star of the show with a menu that changes regularly depending on the seasons and what is available from their local and regional suppliers. The charred sourdough with allium butter and dill is a delicious staple of the primi courses, as is the raw yellowfin tuna with Calabrian chili and lemon. The secondi courses are highlighted by some excellent salads, vegetables and pastas, particularly the bitter lettuce salad and sunchokes with peas and ricotta salata. Many flavors in these dishes stand out for their exceptional execution and uniqueness, often not seen in Charleston.
The main courses are highlighted by the spring chicken in brown butter jus, which, despite its small size, packs a ton of flavor. The fish offerings rotate regularly and were cooked perfectly on recent visits. Their beef comes from Black Hawk Farms in Kentucky and was also prepared impeccably.
Emphasizing the experience and connections that the Heinzes have in the American restaurant industry, Vern’s frequently offers “mash-ups” and guest chefs from around the country. These can be an excellent opportunity to experience cuisines that Charleston does not feature.
Overall, Vern's restaurant is a great example of how American restaurants are still evolving and thriving, even in unlikely settings and locales.
